La nourriture dans l'histoire

Institute of Historical Research

Senate House, Malet Street
London WC1E 7HU
United Kingdom

Programme

Thursday 11 July

9.30am                  Registration and refreshments

10.00 am               Plenary lecture 

Ken Albala, Toward a Historical Dialectic of Culinary Styles

11.15am                Parallel panel sessions

1.       Another person’s poison: food and mysterious symptoms in historical perspective
Marie Reinholdt, The role of dietary approaches in childhood hyperactivity in the US and the UK, 1975 – 2010
Val Harrington, ‘A recipe for relief’: medical and patient discourses around diet in irritable bowel syndrome
Matthew Smith, The pre-history of food allergy: idiosyncrasies in the nineteenth century

2.       Cooking health: food and health in the 19th century Americas

Ilaria Berti, ‘Eat sparingly of all kinds of fruit’
Bruna Gushurst-Moore, Gardens, foods, medicines: foods of the sickroom in nineteenth-century America
Deborah Levine, Therapeutic diets for pregnant women in maternity hospitals, 1880-1920

3.       Dark secrets shared: chocolate, coffee and glocalisation 1: Transnational approaches

Chair: Margrit Schulte, Beerbühl
Jonathan Morris, The Espresso Menu: An International History
Margrit Schulte Beerbühl, Beerbühl, Transferring Sweet Secrets: Transnational connections in the European Chocolate Industry
Angelika Epple, Chocolate and the Invention of Quality
Ruben Quass, Fair Trade Coffee. “Global” Product – “Glocal” Project – “Local” Goals? 

4.       Eating for victory: food production and consumption on the home front during the second world war

John Martin, Potatoes
Debra Reid, Canned corn
Clare Griffiths, Rhubarb

5.       Immigration, food and national identity

Chair: Peter Atkins
Maren Möhring, Transnational Food: The Dönerkebab in Germany
Jernej Mlekuž, Not Just Food, but Food for Thought: A Short History of the Burek in Slovenia
Panikos Panayi, Antisemitism, Poverty and Britishness: The Identity of Fish and Chips

6.       Wild (and tame) food

Robert Alexander Hearn, Where the Wild Things Weren’t: the Re-wilding of Ligurian Culinary Landscapes, 1800-2012
Malcolm Thick, Rabbit production (and consumption) in Eighteenth Century London
Emma C Spary, The natural diet in eighteenth-century France, or, how to feed a wild child

12.45pm               Lunch

• Film screening
• Food history collections and archives
• Katherine Carter (Marks and Spencers archives)
• Polly Russell (British Library)
• Andrea Tanner (Fortnum and Mason)

2.00pm                  Parallel panel sessions

7.       Food and the British empire in the 18th century

Molly Perry, ‘Flowing Bowls and Bumping Glasses’: Raising Toasts, Declaring Loyalty, and Protesting in the British Empire
Lucy Dow, ‘Very Excellent Gingerbread’:  Tracing the cultural influence of empire through eighteenth and nineteenth recipes for Gingerbread
Troy Bickham, The edible map of mankind: food, the enlightenment, and imperialism in Britain
Rachel B Herrmann, No Useless Mouth: Food Diplomacy, Victual Warfare, and the Revolutionary Atlantic

8.       Eating out

Melissa Calaresu, Street food: Eating out in the early modern Italy
Marie-Adeline Guennec, Bibitur, estur quasi in popina : On food in Roman restaurants
Fernando Notario, Eating the Cynic way: anti-cuisine, food and social identity in late classical Greece

9.       Dark secrets shared 2: chocolate, coffee and glocalisation: Comparative approaches

Chair: Jonathan Morris
Tatsuya Mitsuda, The hybridization of tastes: chocolate in Japan, c.1900-1970
Yavuz Köse, Chocolate and Coffee in the Late Ottoman Empire and Turkish Republic
Merry White, Coffee Japanese Style

10.   Feeding Britain in two world wars

Chair: Catherine Geissler
Rachel Duffett, Sustaining the man at the front, 1914-1918
Peter Atkins, What was the point of ‘British Restaurants’, 1940-1947?
Derek Oddy, Nutrition policy in the two World Wars: myths and realities

11.   Roundtable session

Emma Spary (Cambridge), Eating the Enlightenment: food and the sciences in Paris, 1670-1760 (University of Chicago Press, 2012)

12.   Food regimes (convened by History Lab)

Chair: Sara Pennell
Stef Eastoe, ‘Keep them quiet and tranquil’: Exploring the role of food in the long-stay asylum
Bartley Rock , ‘Making a strict distinction in the degree of need’: Aid allocation by the local authorities in Tambov province during the 1891-92 Russian famine
Sally Osborn, Food as medicine: Diet drinks in the eighteenth-century recipe book

3.30pm                  Refreshments

4.00pm                  Plenary lecture

Steven Shapin, You Are What You Eat: Historical Changes in Ideas about Food and Identity

6.00pm                  Conference reception

Friday 12 July

9.00am                  Registration and refreshments

9.30am                  Parallel panel sessions

13.   The food of the lower classes in late medieval England

Chair: Derek Keene
Chris Dyer, Wastel or treet? Buying daily bread in late medieval England
Umberto Albarella, Meat consumption in medieval England: the archaeological evidence from low status rural sites
Chris Woolgar, From hochepot to chitterling: peasant cuisine in late medieval England

14.   Drunkeness and early modern cultural change

Chair: Phil Withington
Tom Nichols, Double vision: the ambivalent imagery of drunkenness in early modern Europe
Rebecca Earle, Indians and Drunkenness in Colonial Spanish America
Angela McShane, A ‘Profane Sacrament’: Cups of Caritas in Seventeenth Century England

15.   Class, gender and heritage in food consumption in North America

Janis Thiessen, Canadian Snack Foods: Old Dutch Potato Chips and Hawkins Cheezies
Matthew Broker, Shifting Tides: Oysters and Social Class in Urban America
Laura Ishiguro, ‘Scramble and Gobble at the Camp Table’: Settler Colonial Narratives of Eating in a Global British Columbia, 1858-1914

16.   Ethnicities of food in the mediterranean world

Mark Aloisio, Regulation, Manipulation and Anti-Jewish Rhetoric in the Meat Markets of Medieval Sicily
Alexander Chase-Levenson, Food, Sensation, and Exoticism in Nineteenth-Century British Narratives of Travel
Ronald Ranta, De-Arabising and Re-Arabising Israeli Food

17.   Celebrity cooks

Jillian Adams, Betty Crocker and her Australian Lookalikes: America and Australian Post-War Culinary Culture
Lara Anderson, The emergence of Spanish culinary nationalism: Dr Thebussem and the king’s chef
Maggie Andrews, Cooking Up a Performance: Fanny Craddock and Food Preparation in British Broadcasting  

18.   Fascism, food and the home front

Kate Ferris, Constructing the empire’s home front: shopkeepers, housewives and the politics of food in fascist Venice during the Ethiopian War
Lisa Pine, Food in Nazi Germany: Consumption, Education and Propaganda in Peace and War
Simone C De Santiago Ramos, Substitute Recipes in National Socialist Germany

11.00am                Refreshments

11.30am                Parallel panel sessions

19.   Food in archaeology: frontiers, translocations and transformations of foodstuffs

Martin Jones, ‘Globalization’ of millets and other staple crops in Bronze Age Eurasia
Marijke van der Veen, The contrasts between Roman and Islamic foodways in the Indian Ocean world, and the agricultural and culinarys innovations of the Islamic period
Nilcole Boivin, Arrival and adoption of Asian crops into eastern Africa, including the Swahili period
Fuller, Dorian, Developing an archaeology of curry

20.   Roundtable session

Deborah Valenze (Barnard College, New York), Milk: a local and global history(Yale University Press, 2011)

21.   New approaches to the transnational history of food and drink

Brian Cowan, Café or Coffeehouse? Trans-national Histories of Coffee and Sociability
Brenda Assael, The Restaurant, Transnationalism and Food Cultures in Modern Britain
Marco Guidici, ‘A bridge across ethnic lines’: Italian cafes in Welsh popular culture and public history, 1980 to the present

22.   Food and drink, living standards and identity: Japan in comparative context

Chair: Janet Hunter
Penelope Francks, Rice as Luxury: Food and Comparative Living Standards in Japan 
Helen Macnaughtan, Consuming Rice in Post-War Japan:  The Electric Rice Cooker and Japanese Housewives
Harald Fuess, Beer as a transcultural commodity in Japan and East Asia

23.   Roundtable session

Rebecca Earle (Warwick), The body of the Conquistador: food, race and the colonial experience in Spanish America, 1492-1700 (Cambridge University Press, 2012)

24.   Feasting and fasting

James Hooper, Inflaming and Subduing the Body: The Role of Food and Denial in Late Antique & Early Medieval Eastern Asceticism
Stuart Palmer, The Fall and Rise of Fasting during the Early Reformation
Louise Carson, ‘For the honour of our nation’: new research on the sugar banquet at the court of Henry VIII
Heather Hess, The Carcass, Civilized: Transforming Flesh into Meat at Seventeenth-Century German Banquets

1.00pm                  LUNCH

• Policy forum

2.00pm                  Plenary lecture 3

Susanne Friedberg, Moral economies and the cold chain

3.00pm                  Parallel panel sessions

25.   The cultural politics of food on south Asia

Rachel Berger (also chair), ‘I can’t believe it’s not ghee: regulating food in late Colonial India’
Isaka Riho, Reconstructing culinary practices in colonial India: Cooks, memsahibs and the Indian middle class
Yamane So, A Study of the Sophisticated Terms in the Urdu Writings on Cuisine Culture under the British Raj

26.   Food and national identity in modern Europe

Jelena Ivanišević, Civilising a brave new world: Croatian cooking and table manners in 1950′s
Nafsika Papacharalampous, Invented traditions and national foods of Greece: the role of cookery books
Marta Sikorska, German or Polish? A Nuremberg cookery book from 1671
Dorota Lewandowska, Drinking like a Pole. Popular images of drinking habits in Poland from the early modern ages until the beginning of the 19th century

27.   Wine in Roman Italy

Chairs: Geoffrey Kron, Steven Ellis, Willem Jongman
Wim Broekaert, Efficiency-enhancing strategies in the Roman wine trade: from producer to consumer
Claire Holleran, ‘With a single as, you can drink here; if you pay two asses, you will drink better; if you pay four asses, you will drink Falernian wine’ (CIL IV 1679, Pompeian graffito): the retailing of wine in Roman Italy
Paul Erdkamp, The consumption of wine in Roman Italy

28.   Reconstructing historic loaves of bread: three periods, three methodologies, one quest

Chair: Ken Albala
Samuel Delwen, Archaeology and the exploration of ancient bread
Richard Fitch, Our Ech Day Bred – Bread in the late medieval & early post medieval period
William Rubel, Take 2 Spoonfuls of New Barm – A Dictionary of British, French, and American Baking Terms circa 1550 to 1880

29.   Hunger and politics

Bruce E Baker, Foraged Food in the Nineteenth-Century American South
John Bohstedt, The Politics of Provisions: The Food Riots of 2007-08 in Historical Contexts
Brodie Waddell, The Politics of Hunger and the Revolution of 1688

30.   War and hunger in the Soviet Union

Elisaveta Khatanzeiskaya, Food Resources, Starvation and Death in the Wartime Arckangelsk (1941 – 1945)
Mikhail Suprun, Food Lend-Lease Aid to Russia during The Second World War
Pavel Vasilyev, Reassessing the Black Market in Food and Food Cards in Besieged Leningrad (1941-1944)

4.30pm                  Refreshments

5.00pm                  Plenary lecture 4

Cormac O’Grada, Famine is not the problem: an historical perspective

Saturday 13 July

9.30am                  Parallel panel sessions

31.   Food economics

Adina Popescu Berk, Regulating Markets: Famine and Speculation on International Grain Markets, 1890-1909
Birgit Ricquier, Kongo Cuisine and the Columbian Exchange: Lexical Evidence for Culinary Transformations at the West-Central African Coast, and Beyond
Laura Prosperi, Beyond common places: criminal power and the Italian food chain

32.   Baffling innovations: exploring the role of new foodways in the 19th and 20th centuries

Chair: Rachel Rich
Nelleke Teughels, Small Grocery Stores Become Big Business: Delhaize Frères & Cie and the Modernisation of the Traditional Corner Shop
Willem Scheire, Innovations in Food Preservation: The Domestic Refrigerator in Europe
Olivier de Maret, Setting a Trend? Italian Food Businesses in Late-Nineteenth-Century Brussels

33.   Potatoes, bread and biscuits: environmental change and industrialisation in British food, 1790-1950

Chair: Laurel Sefton MacDowell
David Fouser, From Abernethys to Zoologicals: Industry, Environment, and Culture in British Biscuits, 1830-1914
Chris Otter, White Bread Britain: Wheat, Technology and Globalization 1850-1950
David Zylberberg, Potatoes, Broths and Wheaten Breads: Fuel Prices and Yorkshire Regional Diets, 1790-1830

34.   Governing food, 1945-70Chair: Shane Hamilton
Chris Deutsch, ‘One Line of Defense against the Spread of Foreign Contagious Disease’: Regulating Industrial Beef in California, 1945 to 1960
Freear, Josie, Exploring the role of government policy and regulation in shaping the British diet from 1947
Megan Elias, , Counterculture Cuisine in the 1970s

35.   Food and drink in the Georgian workhouse

Chair: Tim Hitchcock
Jeremy Boulton, & Romola Davenport, Food, drink and diet in the Georgian Workhouse: St Martin in the Fields, 1725-1830
Susannah Ottaway, Food and the Eighteenth-Century Workhouse
Graham Butler, ‘The Necessities of life’? Food and drink in the Georgian workhouse: Newcastle-upon-Tyne c.1740-1834

36.   Food, famine and war in modern Ireland

Bryce Evans, ‘The Most Important Thing in the World’: Food and its Role in Global Conflict
Ian Miller, Did Ireland nearly starve during the First World War?
Charles Read, Hunting for Giffen Goods in 1840s Irish Market Data

11.00am                Refreshments

11.30am                Parallel panel sessions

37.   The appliance of science

Robert M Hutchings, Demands of Domesticity: Why Americans Drank Frozen Concentrated Orange Juice in the 1950s
Tani Mauriello, If Vacuums Meant ‘More Work for Mother’, Did Dishware Mean Less Food For Mother? The relationship between an increased material standard of living and nutritional inequality for women in nineteenth-century Britain
Helen Peavitt, From the daily pint to ‘Jamaican jiggers’: repositioning the domestic refrigerator within the home

38.   National health campaigns

Angela Davis, The resurgence in breastfeeding: Infant feeding in Britain, c. 1945-2000
Caroline Durand, Cooking for the French-Canadian Nation: Governing with Nutrition in the Province of Quebec, 1900-1945
Jane Hand, From ‘Look After Yourself’ to ‘Look After Your Heart’: The Role of Nutrition and Consumerism within Health Education in the UK, 1973-1991.
Érico Silva Muniz, Drink milk, avoid manioc! Nutrition knowledge and the proposals for workforce improvement in Brazil (1940-1960)

39.   Fast food

Cory Bernat, Plastics and Food Culture
Carolyn Cobbold, How a new chemical palette of dyes coloured the palate of an industrialising nation
Tom Scott-Smith, The rise of emergency feeding: technological foodstuffs in disaster and war, 1914-2013

40.   Alimentary advice in late medieval and early modern Europe

Lucinda Byatt, Florentine Treatises on Food and Household Management in mid-sixteenth century Rome
Sarah Peters Kernan, Social Aspirations and the New Audience for Cookeries in Late Medieval England
Sarah Fox, ‘The Usual Cheer’: the role of food in early modern childbirth

41.   Food and the Victorians

William Marshall, Yan ‘at eeats maist pudden gets maist meeat: Alimentary regionalism as a cultural component of nineteenth-century Yorkshire
Rachel Rich, Mealtimes and domesticity: Victorian women and the shape of the day
Lucy A Bailey, Squire, shopkeeper and staple food: The reciprocal relationship between the village shop and the country house in the early nineteenth century
Rebecca Ford, The Watercress Girl and the Watercress Garden: Cultural Landscapes of Watercress in the 19th-century

42.   Godly food

Michael Kauffmann, Imagery of food in the Bible
Allison D Fizzard, ‘A Competent Mess’: Food and Retirement at Religious Houses in England and Wales, c. 1485-1540
Katherine Harvey, Food, Drink and the Episcopal Body

1.00pm                  END OF CONFERENCE