Global Histories of Hair, c.1500-2026
Call for papers
An
international, interdisciplinary conference, organised by the SNSF Starting
Grant Team “Matter of Distinction: Early Modern Hair, Race, Trade, and
Multispecies History” (Annika Bärwald, Laura Schleiss, Sarah-Maria Schober) at
the University of Lucerne on October 8–10, 2026.
The Deadline for submissions is May 15,
2026.
Hyper-present
on almost all heads and bodies, hair is a forceful matter of difference. It
signals gender, class, sometimes religion or politics – as well as racialised
distinction. As such, hair connects and disconnects humans and other species
across the globe and throughout history. The conference “Global Histories of
Hair” aims to bring together researchers working on hair as a matter of
distinction in the early modern and modern worlds.
One
temporal focus is on the period between approximately 1500 and 1850,
encapsulating the European and colonial “age of the wig”. Alongside various
types of animal hair reaching their position as “commodities of empire” during
this time, human hair was cut, collected and traded over long distances to be
used on other people’s heads. In this process, hair and hair practices became
an ever-clearer marker of increasingly essentialised and naturalised
difference.
In a second
step, the conference addresses the long-lasting hairy heritage of distinction
making from 1500 to the present day. This includes the role of hair as human
remains in anthropological collections as well as racialised regulations of
hair or differences in hair care possibilities.
Contributions
might address, but are not limited to, the following areas and questions:
Discourse,
Knowledge, Practices:
- What
role did hair play in the so-called “contact zone”, where Europeans
commented upon and categorised hair and hair practices of others, while
also being observed and often humorously commented upon themselves (for
example because of their wearing of wigs and powder)?
- What
did hair practices in different parts of the world actually look like?
- How
were grooming techniques or practices of covering hair described,
categorised, and also, in some contexts, enforced?
Materiality,
Trade, Valuation:
- What
role did aspects of hair materiality, such as hair colour, hair texture,
hair strength, hair abundance and loss, play in the global sphere? How did
the strands of hair materiality, hair knowledge and hair practices
entangle or disentangle?
- How
was hair collected, traded, valued and used in different regions of the
world?
- How
did the trade, circulation and usage of hair bring people (and other
beings) together and separate them? In what ways did the human hair trade
differ from or coalesce with the trade in other fibres?
- How
was hair conceptualised and used by people in different regions as a
naturecultural material? How were aspects of malleability or
essentialisation visualised or hidden, and for what purpose? How did hair
contribute to understandings of the increasing separation of nature and
culture, and both of these aspects’ respective roles in distinction
making?
Intersectionality:
- How
did ideas about racial, gender-based, religious or class-based hair
differences affect people around the globe?
- What
forms of expression, or even resistance, did hair care provide to people
experiencing inequality and suppression?
Heritage:
- How
have lasting hairy heritages affected people and their bodies around the
globe since 1500?
- What
attempts have been made to de-essentialise hair? What are ways of unmaking
hair distinctions?
Presentations
are scheduled for 20 minutes, with ample time allocated for discussion. We
invite researchers from all relevant fields, such as history, art history,
anthropology as well as museum and collection professionals and archivists.
Early-career scholars are strongly encouraged to apply. The conference will
take place in Lucerne, Switzerland. Travel, accommodation and visa costs will
be covered, and organisational assistance will be provided. Hybrid attendance
is possible. The conference language is English.
Please
submit an abstract (c. 250 words) and a short biography (c. 100
words). The deadline for submissions is May 15, 2026.
Contact: svenja.furger@unilu.ch